The Squamish climbing community is abuzz with the recent development of two new multi-pitch 5.8 rock climbs by Ryan Block. These routes, Welcome to Squamish and If You Lived Here You’d Be Home Now, offer climbers a unique and varied experience, showcasing the diverse terrain and natural beauty of the area. With 16 pitches between them, these routes provide a multitude of variations, ranging from 5.9 to 5.7. The climbs feature a mix of finger, hand, and offwidth cracks, as well as opportunities for laybacking, stemming, chimneying, and face climbing, all set against the stunning backdrop of Howe Sound.
Block's personal connection to the area adds an extra layer of intrigue. He was drawn to the Papoose's south face, which had long been overlooked, and was inspired by the tragic death of a friend to create something meaningful. The development process was challenging, involving cleaning and bolting the area, battling core-shot static lines, and even dealing with the aftermath of the infamous VW Beetle prank. Despite these obstacles, Block's dedication and passion for climbing have resulted in two exceptional routes that are sure to become staples in the Squamish climbing community.
One of the most intriguing aspects of these routes is the variety of terrain they offer. Climbers can expect to encounter a mix of finger, hand, and offwidth cracks, as well as opportunities for laybacking, stemming, chimneying, and face climbing. The area is also known for its slabs, which provide a unique and challenging climbing experience. Block's favorite pitch, a corner crack with a unique dike intrusion, is a testament to the creativity and innovation that goes into route development.
The approach to both multipitches is a 10-minute hike from the Shannon Falls parking lot, making them accessible to climbers of all skill levels. The routes are well-bolted and feature plenty of natural protection, making them suitable for both trad and sport climbing. The panoramic views of Howe Sound provide a stunning reward for those who make the ascent.
In conclusion, the development of these two new multi-pitch 5.8 rock climbs in Squamish is a testament to the passion and dedication of route developers like Ryan Block. The routes offer a unique and varied climbing experience, showcasing the diverse terrain and natural beauty of the area. With their challenging yet rewarding nature, these routes are sure to become a favorite among climbers in the Squamish climbing community.
